Day 6: Les Chapieux to Courmayeur

We went for a run today, but more on that later.

Up at 5.00am and away by 5.45am. We were the second people on the trail, although plenty more were stirring by the time we left.

We didn't wait for the 7.30am bus, thinking we'd be well ahead of it as it only skips 6km of the route up the valley. We arrived at the end of the section just before the bus did: hot, sweaty and watching fresh-looking walkers step off. Still, we had those first 6km of trail entirely to ourselves.

Most of the climb to the Col de la Seigne was in the shade. The sun finally caught us shortly before the border, and we crossed into Italy under clear blue skies. The views improved dramatically from here, with our first proper views of the Mont Blanc summit from the Italian side.

I applied suncream with unusual enthusiasm today. Gaby warned me that if my legs got any more sunburnt, I would be buying a pair of trousers in the next town.

We descended across snowfields and into the forests below. As the temperature climbed, we reached the decision point: take the balcony route with even better views, or head straight down the valley. It was essentially a choice between just 500m of vertical descent or another 1000m of ascent followed by 1,500m of descent, so we opted for the former.

Thinking we had just missed the hourly bus, we resigned ourselves to pounding the tarmac in the afternoon heat. Then we spotted it pulling away from the stop ahead. We started running and waving our arms. The driver saw us, stopped and waited. It was the first of several acts of kindness we received from Italians today.

The bus ride was excellent. Partly because it was free, but mainly because the views winding down the valley were spectacular. Whether we were admiring the scenery or simply not paying attention, we sailed straight past our campsite and ended up in Courmayeur.

In the end it worked out rather well. We needed a new sleeping pad for Gaby, and staying in town solved a few problems at once. Tomorrow's bus doesn't leave until about 8.30am, which would mean walking more of the day in the midday heat. By starting from Courmayeur we can head straight onto the second balcony section early in the morning, avoiding the rather dull 500m road climb back up from the campsite. It also frees up a day later in the trip, allowing us to walk a section we had originally planned to skip by bus to keep the itinerary manageable.

So we checked into a "super vintage" hotel, which appeared to be the local phrase for "budget", and spent the afternoon coming to terms with an unexpected night of luxury in a real bed.

It felt a bit like taking Gaby out for a date night. Dinner was supermarket ready meals eaten on the steps beside the bus station. Well, chicken anyway, as they didn't sell chips. Not the most obvious romantic setting, but if you know Courmayeur you'll know the mountain views from the main bus stop are spectacular.

Dessert was ice cream and an energy drink back at the hotel. Nothing says "ready for bed" quite like a large dose of sugar. Gaby warned me that if I couldn't sleep afterwards there would be consequences, particularly as the hotel room cost considerably more than the campsite.

We aim to leave at 5:30am tomorrow to again beat the midday heat.