OUR WAY

 10th May 2025

Day 12 - Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz

Castrojeriz in the distance

It almost felt like a holiday this morning - we didn’t leave until 6:10am. It was going to be a relaxed day of just 20 km.

Someone in the dorm muttered, “It’s 4:42, turn off your light,” but it wasn’t the light that woke me - it was the woman loudly telling them to turn it off. Sleep didn’t return after that. By 5:20 we were both awake and decided to get up.

Morning mist

Outside was cool and misty. The Camino eased out of the village through farmland, climbing gradually to a wide plateau with full 360° views. The sunrise lit the sky with a soft orange. The trail underfoot became muddier as we went, thick clumps collecting on our shoes and making things a bit slick. We passed through the village of Hontanas without stopping, despite the lure of coffee.

The final 9km were flat. As we reached Castrojeriz, the rain arrived - at first steady, then torrential. We sheltered in a doorway until it eased, then walked the final 300m to our albergue, arriving at 10:15 - two and a quarter hours before it officially opened. We found a dry spot by the entrance and waited.

They let us in early, at 11:30, with a warm and friendly welcome. We were first in the queue. €9 got us beds, radiators, and the joy of drying out next to our bunk - luxury, Camino-style.

The joys of Merino wool meant I didn't have to wash my top, it will be good to wear another day without walking the camino itself.

View from Gabys bunk

Where we stayed
Albergue Municipal de San Estéban
€9 bunk bed
Limited kitchen, hand washing and spin dryer line, heating. Small supermarket & bars in village.
Our rating 8.5/10