OUR WAY

 18th May 2025

Day 20 - Santa Catalina de Somoza to El Acebo

Deserted morning streets

Awake at 4am but didn’t get up until 5am when Gaby began stirring. We left just before 5:30am, likely the first to head out again. A very still morning with clear skies, stars overhead and the promise of orange light on the horizon. Unsurprisingly, everything was closed as we passed through the first village at 6:30am. By the time we reached Foncebadón at 7:45, it was time for coffee. We stopped at the first building - a combined albergue and café - already full of pilgrims eating breakfast. It was so busy we had to sit outside.

Once the caffeine kicked in, Gaby set a strong pace for the last 500m of ascent. We passed numerous others on the trail. I was keen to get the climb done before the heat set in. A quick stop at a small shop/bar in Foncebadón at 1,427m to buy bread for lunch, then a final push to Cruz de Ferro at 1,500m. Cruz de Ferro is a simple iron cross atop a tall wooden pole, where pilgrims traditionally leave a stone brought from home – a symbolic act of letting go of burdens. It’s one of the most spiritual and iconic points on the Camino Francés. We each left a stone: Gaby’s from Ord Ban, a small hill near home; mine one I’d hit with the lawnmower while cutting the grass at home - complete with scratch marks from the blades.

Cruz de Ferro

Finally on the descent

From there, it was mostly downhill as the temperature kept climbing. We passed signs for our albergue proudly advertising a swimming pool, which Gaby was looking forward to. We eventually reached El Acebo to find the pool dry and closed—apparently too cold to open. Having sweated buckets and applied plenty of factor 50, I’d disagree.

The village of El Acebo

After a much-needed hot shower and the usual round of clothes washing, we collapsed into a couple of comfy chairs to rehydrate and eat lunch, then moved to the dorm balcony to relax, take in the wide views over the valley… and watch dark clouds rolling in.

Gaby booked the pilgrim menu for the evening meal, having decided she’d had enough of sandwiches. That left me with my salami sandwich for company, while she settled in to enjoy a three-course meal with wine.

Where we stayed
Albergue La Casa del Peregrino
€14 single bed in 8 bed dorm room
Hand washing, line drying. Bar. Pool closed :(
Our rating 8/10