OUR WAY

 20th May 2025

Day 22 - Cacabelos to Vega de Valcarse

Early morning views across the vineyards.

Over 600 km walked so far!

We finally had a cooler night, able to sleep with the window open. We both slept well, with just one person lightly snoring. My alarm went off at 5:25, though Gaby was already awake. We stuffed our sleeping bags and carried everything out to reception so we could make more noise while packing.

Out the front door by 6 a.m., we walked through the lit streets of town. Today’s route involved a lot of walking alongside roads - sometimes on gravel trails, sometimes on pavement. After a steady climb through vineyards, we descended into Villafranca del Bierzo, a beautiful old town.

Castillo de los Marqueses

We stopped for coffee at the first open café, surprised to find one open so early. From inside, we looked out the window at the Castillo de los Marqueses de Villafranca, a Renaissance-style castle once home to the powerful noble family that shaped the region’s history. After making use of their facilities - usually the main reason we stop - we continued through the historic streets, crossed the Río Burbia, and followed the Río Valcarce in a narrow valley alongside the old main road, with the new road overhead on towering concrete pillars. What many might consider a boring stretch of road walking, we both enjoyed for the scenery, and the 12 km passed quickly.

We arrived in Vega de Valcarce quite early, around 11:30, and were surprised to find our albergue already open. After showering, we washed clothes and hung them on a washing line - a bit of string on the roadside.

Kitchen views

Then we headed to the supermarket and bought a big slab of steak - 800g to be precise -along with a few potatoes, a tomato for Gaby, and the cheapest (€1.50) bottle of wine. At the checkout, I asked the cashier if the wine was any good. She hesitated. I asked if she would drink it. She said “no.” I sent Gaby back for a better bottle.

Steak please. Note washing drying on other side of street

For lunch, we sat on the albergue terrace in the shade, looking out across the valley. Maybe it was the nearly half kilo of steak or the wine, but Gaby didn’t like the rice pudding we’d bought for dessert. I obliged and ate hers as well as mine, plus the white chocolate-covered biscuits and chocolate chip cookies - I take fueling for the Camino very seriously.

We made the most of the beautiful weather and did nothing all afternoon, except plan our next trip to the supermarket when it reopened at 5 p.m. We’ll probably try ice cream for dessert this time.

Where we stayed
Albergue Municipal Vega de Valcarce
€10 bunk bed in 4 bed dorm room
Hand washing, line drying. Washing machine. Lots of toilets and showers. Good kitchen. Cheap
Our rating 8.5/10