OUR WAY

 21st May 2025

Day 23 - Vega de Valcarce to Fonfría

After nearly 1000m ascent we expect good views

Only two others in our dorm room and outwith earshot of the bathrooms, we both slept well. We packed our bags in the reception area and headed out at 6am. It started with road walking up the valley, the Castillo de Sarracín illuminated on the hill in the distance. As it got lighter, we passed through the first village of Las Herrerías de Valcarce - all very quiet except for a few pilgrims leaving their albergues.

Castillo de Sarracín

From here the ascent began, about 1000m in total today - on the road at first, then up a track through the trees to the next village, La Faba, at 920m. Gaby surprised me by not wanting to stop for coffee. The climb continued, with spectacular views back down the valley, now covered by a cloud inversion. As the trail ascended further, a mist descended over the ridge, and a large stone stood in front of us. It marked the province boundary -we are now in Galicia. The trail widened and appeared better maintained.

Galicia

The cloud thickened, shrouding the forest in a blanket of white as pilgrims ahead disappeared into it. Then, with visibility low, we heard faint music. As we approached, we realised it was the distinctive sound of a lone bagpiper, who emerged from the mist as we passed. A nice welcome to the new province - though the cloud didn’t lift, and we spent the next few hours without much view… not unlike a typical day back home in Scotland.

The final few kilometres were downhill to the village of Fonfría - a one-horse town. Actually, a one-cow town, as that’s all I saw in the field as we approached our albergue, A Reboleira.

A surprisingly large building with a big dorm, hot showers, and a comfy living room. We decided to use the washing machine for only the third time in 23 days. It’s nice to feel properly clean once in a while.

Typical dorm room - guess who's bed is who's

No shops in the village - just the bar/cafés in the respective albergues - so we’d brought our meals with us from a supermarket the evening before.

We enjoyed the changing view from the expansive windows as the clouds finally started to lift in the afternoon.

Relaxing afternoon

Where we stayed
La Reboleira
€14 bunk bed in 30 bed dorm room
Hand washing, line drying. Washing machine. Lots of toilets and showers. No kitchen. Good living area and dining area
Our rating 9/10