Day 2: A camping spot in the woods to Elizondo

Woke to the patter of water on the tent. It was more from the trees than the clouds, although it was very misty.

Again I woke too early. It was still dark outside, so I rolled over for another 15 minutes of rest.

I packed my bag inside the dry tent, leaving the tent itself to be stuffed into the large stretch pocket on my rucksack. The clothes I'd washed (or rather rinsed under a cold tap) were still wet, so I kept on the dry set I'd slept in and packed the others away to dry later.

I set out at 7am. The two other campers hadn't stirred yet. It was 17km to Elizondo and, although I'd looked at a camping spot another 10km further along the trail, Elizondo would be today's destination. It was warm, too warm for a waterproof jacket, so in shorts and a T-shirt I became completely soaked by the mist (I may have sweated a bit too). The route itself was fairly uninspiring, following gravel tracks and woodland. It took just three hours to reach Elizondo, passing five other walkers along the way. Getting busy now.

My first port of call was the tourist office - closed. I knew the supermarket didn't shut until 2pm and, having done a bit of research the previous evening, I also knew there was a cheap hotel in town. The website said check-in was after 4pm, as did the sign on the door, but I asked if there were any rooms available and whether I could check in straight away. It might have been my dishevelled appearance - soaked from head to foot, muddy and looking thoroughly worn out - but the man on reception worked miracles. By five past ten I was in the shower, washing my shoes, then my clothes, then myself. I hung the wet tent over the shower rail to dry and was fully settled in, all for the bargain price of €50.

Why a hotel after such a short day? Thunderstorms were forecast for the evening and my planned campsite was on a mountain col. Heavy rain was expected all afternoon, and wild camping would have meant waiting until late to pitch the tent. My tent was already wet inside and out, I still had damp kit and, most importantly, I was still feeling the effects of the previous week's heat. Rehydrating felt like a one-way street. I drank constantly but never needed the toilet, which told me all I needed to know. I was pushing my body too hard, so it was time for a proper reset. I have 38 days to walk the length of the Pyrenees. My feet were sore from yesterday and there was no prize for grinding myself into the ground this early.

Elizondo is a lovely town on the Baztan River. I enjoyed a wander around the supermarket and even managed to buy a large gas canister. It will probably last until the end of the trip. No more salami sandwiches for dinner; they can go back to being lunch.