Day 11: Refugio de Goriz to Monte Perdido (3355m) and beyond

Highs and lows today – you definitely couldn't call this a holiday.

I was a little too keen and set my alarm for 5:30am, only to find it was still dark. I took my time getting ready instead. Everything I needed for a morning mountain ascent went into my rucksack, while everything else stayed in my locker at the refuge.

I set off at 6:30am, probably the first person to leave. My destination was Monte Perdido (3,355m), Spain's third-highest mountain. At this time of year it was a straightforward ascent. The route was almost completely free of snow, so there was no need for an ice axe or crampons. There was a short scramble, a brief section with chains to assist, and one small soft snowfield just below the summit.

I'd only decided to climb it yesterday, so I wasn't quite sure what to expect. It's an impressive mountain: rugged, rocky and remarkably steep, with plenty of variety on the ascent. The hardest part was the final scree slope, where every step up lost half a step as the loose stones slid away beneath my feet. Eventually the angle eased onto a broad plateau before the final short snowfield led to the summit.

The summit was calm, sunny and I had it entirely to myself. The reward was uninterrupted 360-degree views across the Pyrenees.

I was back at the refuge by 10:50am, chatted with a few fellow GR11 walkers, and attempted a semi-rest day. The problem was that relaxing in the scorching sun wasn't particularly relaxing, so I decided I might as well keep walking.

The afternoon began gently enough, but the descent became steeper and steeper. It's amazing how steep a path can be while still managing to zigzag down a mountainside. I thought of a few choice words to describe it, but I'll save those for later.

I reached a popular camping spot at around 2pm, but it was far too early to pitch the tent. After checking the map and guidebook, the options ahead didn't look especially promising, so I decided to keep going and see where I ended up.

Another seven hours later, I think today's descent has claimed first place as the worst of the GR11 so far. Spectacular to look at, but loose, relentlessly steep and painfully slow. I kept pushing on because water sources and decent flat camping spots were scarce.

Eventually I reached the valley floor, filled every water bottle I had, just in case, and soon found a discreet flat patch of grass just off the trail from Refugio de Pineta, tent was up by 7:30pm, and I lay there completely exhausted until I fell asleep.

By the end of the day I'd climbed around 2,100m and descended an astonishing 3,057m. My legs certainly knew about it.