Day 12: Refugio de Pineta to Camping El Forcallo

My plan was to walk 30km today, but my plans rarely go... according to plan.

I packed up and left at 6:45am. The day began with a gentle 30-minute stroll up the valley before the inevitable climb started. We climbed the opposite side of the valley to yesterday's descent, with clear views of the route down. If you hadn't walked it the day before, you'd never believe there was a path there.

Near the top I caught up with the Czech family I'd seen several times over the last few days and chatted with them over the final part of the ascent.

The descent to Parzán followed a vehicle track and then tarmac. Normally I'd find that dull, but after yesterday's brutal descent it made for a pleasant change.

Parzán has a couple of supermarkets that cater largely for French shoppers, as it's the first village across the border in Spain. I headed to the restaurant first and had the best chicken and chips of the trip so far. Dessert came from the supermarket and was enjoyed on a shaded bench in the park.

My afternoon objective was the unstaffed refuge at Ibón de Urdiceto. It was a hot, sticky climb with temperatures around 32°C in the valley and thunderstorms building. I passed three walkers who were also heading for the refuge and mentioned that several others ahead had the same plan. By the time I reached the turn-off it was already raining, thunder was rumbling in the distance, and the prospect of a crowded hut or a wet, windy night in the tent if there was no space convinced me to keep going.

The signpost said 3½ hours to the next valley. I covered it in two. Let's just call it very fast walking.

By 7:00pm I reached Camping El Forcallo, where a hot shower, washed clothes and a cooked meal of noodles felt surprisingly luxurious. After that it was straight to bed.

The last few days have been tough. The climbs and descents have been relentlessly steep and rocky, with huge amounts of elevation gained and lost every day.

What I'm asking of my body isn't sustainable, so after tomorrow it will be a full rest day. Noodles, Oreos and salami can only work so much magic.