Day 5: Ochagavia to Zuriza

A dry night, but not quite warm enough to fully dry my clothes. They had to go back on anyway.

I started at 7am, climbing straight out of the village. Most of the morning was spent ascending forest roads through woodland before descending on a more overgrown trail into Isaba.

Passing through the centre on the way to the supermarket, I bumped into Matyas, a Czech hiker I'd seen outside the supermarket the previous day. He was the only other GR11 walker I would see all day.

The supermarket was a disappointment. No 3-minute noodles, Oreos or Frosted Cornflakes. I tried the smaller supermarket instead and bought all six packs of their 3-minute noodles. They didn't have the other things I wanted either, so I returned to the first supermarket to finish my shopping.

I was buying food for the next four days and eventually left with what I hoped was enough calories.

Back at the shelter in the village square, Matyas came over for another chat and we decided to walk together for the afternoon. He set a good pace, so it worked well.

We were now heading into what the guidebook calls "mountainous terrain". The rolling hills gave way to jagged limestone formations. The camping area described in the guidebook has now closed, with camping no longer permitted there. My original plan was to wild camp beside a ruined building, but after discussing it with Matyas we decided to head higher to a doorless metal shelter instead.

It was a long, steep and loose climb, made harder by carrying water up from the valley floor. I was pleased to reach the shelter, although it was exactly as advertised: small, doorless and with an earth floor. I pitched my tent outside.

We saw our first marmots of the trip.

I also realised I hadn't brushed my teeth for three days. I soon corrected that, reasoning that the more toothpaste I used, the lighter my pack would become.