Day 8: Ibon de Anayet to Ibón de Llena Cantal

It was one of those defining mountain mornings. No wind, warm air, the sun slowly rising, and the surrounding peaks reflected perfectly across the lake. Matyas and I stood in silence for a while, simply taking it all in.

Matyas said he would be ten minutes getting ready. I suggested fifteen. Neither of us wanted to rush and miss those rare early morning moments of complete mountain peace. It was made even more special by the reflection of Pic du Midi d'Ossau in the lake, a mountain I had climbed with my dad on a family holiday back in 1992.

We followed the eastern shore of the lake before beginning the descent down the valley. Passing the ski lifts and infrastructure, we reached the main road and stopped at the first café. Matyas needed to work out how and where he was going to meet a friend who was coming out to visit, which also determined what supplies he would need from the supermarket in the next village.

After shopping, we headed back onto the trail and found a sunny spot to dry our kit. The tent was soaked with condensation and neither of our clothes had dried from the previous day. Soon the grass was covered with tents, sleeping bags, T-shirts, trousers, socks and underwear, with anything that would hang balanced on nearby sticks. It turned out to be quite a busy path, so we smiled and exchanged greetings with the steady stream of walkers passing our temporary outdoor laundry while we ate lunch. I checked the nutritional information on my salami and realised I had consumed over 1,000 calories simply waiting for my underwear to dry.

Once everything was finally dry and packed away, we tackled the day's main challenge: a steep 1,200-metre climb up a rocky valley with impressive waterfalls and some big drops. We stopped at Refugio de Respomuso for a drink before continuing to Ibón de Llena Cantal, where we reached our wild campsite beside the lake at 2,440 metres.

Two French couples were already pitching their tents. We briefly chatted with each couple about the col we would all be crossing the following day, as there was still snow on the final ascent. We had already asked at the refuge and spoken to walkers coming the other way, but decided we would assess the conditions for ourselves in the morning.

It was another perfectly still, warm evening. I made use of the natural facilities with a rather impressive view and spent a while taking in the scenery around me.

Thought of the day: I use my spoon every day. When I've finished eating, I simply lick it clean and put it back in its pouch. Should I actually wash it at some point?

As I write this, I'm lying in my tent, watching the last golden light fade from the surrounding peaks after another excellent day on the GR11.