Day 9: Ibón de Llena Cantal to Camping San Nicolás de Bujaruelo

The Cicerone GR11 guide describes this stage as the most difficult on the GR11, with the ascent to the Cuello de Tebarray being particularly challenging when late-season snow remains in the steep gully below the pass. There was still snow.

Before setting off we asked at Refugio de Respomuso about the conditions, but the advice was vague. We were simply told that people had crossed over the previous few days without ice axe or crampons, neither of which we were carrying. We deliberately left a little later than usual to give the sun time to soften the snow.

As we climbed towards the gully we caught up with the French couple we had spoken to the previous evening. At the first snow patch the Frenchman offered to go first. He was wearing walking boots while I was in trail shoes, so he kicked steps into the snow, making the crossing much easier. The final steep snow section was only about 40 metres long, followed by steel cables that help on the final rocky climb to the pass. We were the first party up that morning and, with the snow having softened over the previous couple of days, the crossing was well within our capabilities.

We were surprised by the number of people coming up from the opposite side, including several youth groups, although it was still the weekend.

After descending to Refugio de los Ibones de Bachimaña we took the GR11 variant staying high rather than descending to the Baños de Panticosa

The sun was relentless and the final climb to the col felt far harder than it should have. The descent that followed was worse: 1,345 metres of descent beginning across a boulder field before dropping into what seemed like an endless valley. Despite being mostly downhill, there was still plenty of climbing mixed in, and in the afternoon heat it felt as though the valley would never end.

We finally reached the campsite shortly after 7 pm, thoroughly exhausted.

The campsite was inexpensive, which perhaps explained the cold showers. It was also extremely windy with rock-hard ground. The wind pulled the tent pegs out twice while I was pitching, and using a rock as a hammer eventually resulted in two broken pegs.

Tomorrow I'm back to walking alone, as Matyas is being joined by a friend before walking into France then carrying on the GR11 for the next two weeks. Hopefully our paths cross again further along the trail.