HELLO. THIS IS OUR WAY
Camino de Santiago de Compostela
- Camino Frances -
15th May 2025
Day 17 - Reiligos to Leon
We left the albergue at the customary 6am, passing an illuminated crochet sign for Reliegos as we moved through the darkness.
16th May 2025
Day 18 León to Hospital de Órbigo
I think you know our morning routine. We headed through the city illuminated by street lights, following the map on my phone as the Camino signage was almost non-existent. First stop for photos was at the Convento de San Marcos before crossing over the Río Bernesga.
17th May 2025
Day 19 - Hospital de Órbigo to Santa Catalina de Somoza
I got up early enough to have a bowl of cereal with the chocolate milk I’ve been carrying for the past two days. Probably the first to leave, just before 6am.
18th May 2025
Day 20 - Santa Catalina de Somoza to El Acebo
Awake at 4am but didn’t get up until 5am when Gaby began stirring. We left just before 5:30am, likely the first to head out again. A very still morning with clear skies, stars overhead and the promise of orange light on the horizon
19th May 2025
Day 21 - El Acebo to Cacabelos
The note at reception said “doors open at 7am - no leaving before 7am,” so we had the longest lie-in ever, until 6:25am. I crept out to eat my cereals on the balcony in the cool air so as not to disturb anyone.
20th May 2025
Day 22 - Cacabelos to Vega de Valcarse
We both slept well, with just one person lightly snoring. My alarm went off at 5:25, though Gaby was already awake. We stuffed our sleeping bags and carried everything out to reception so we could make more noise while packing.
21st May 2025
Day 23 - Vega de Valcarce to Fonfría
Only two others in our dorm room and outwith earshot of the bathrooms, we both slept well. We packed our bags in the reception area and headed out at 6am. It started with road walking up the valley, the Castillo de Sarracín illuminated on the hill in the distance.
21st May 2025
Notes from the camino: albergue bathrooms
Spanish albergue bathrooms are a masterclass in extreme energy-saving. Most have either timer-activated switches or motion sensors. If it’s a switch, there’s usually a faintly glowing LED to guide you like a tiny beacon of hope. If it’s a sensor, well—prepare for sudden, dramatic darkness.
22nd May 2025
Day 24 - Fonfría to Sarria
A short day today, and with a confirmed reservation and no check-in before 13:00, we took things at a more relaxed pace. Left at 6am, using the head torch for the first half hour. It started cool and cloudy, but by the time daylight broke, we were under the cloud line, wandering through big rolling hills, farmland, and woodlands. Over 1,200 metres of descent made the morning fly by.
23rd May 2025
Day 25 - Sarria to Portomarín
An alarm went off at 5am. It rang for about a minute before being slapped into snooze submission. This happened another three times before 5:30am, presumably in case the first few rings hadn't been annoying enough. No sign of life from anyone else in our dorm - either they were exceptionally sound sleepers or just really good at pretending.