GR11 La Senda Transpirenaica
Day by day from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean, across the Pyrenees.
From the salt spray of the Atlantic to the shimmering turquoise of the Mediterranean, the GR11 La Senda Transpirenaica is more than just a trail; it is an 800 km odyssey through the rugged heart of the Pyrenees. This journey is a relentless crossing of high mountain passes, ancient glacial valleys, and the wild, windswept borders of Spain, France, and Andorra.
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Day 1: El Cabo to Beyond Bera in search of water
There was a party outside my tent last night. I wasn't invited. I didn't want to go anyway; I just wanted to sleep. Every tent around me seemed to have music playing, people chatting and laughing, and one group even appeared to be playing some sort of ball game, although it soun…
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Day 2: A camping spot in the woods to Elizondo
Woke to the patter of water on the tent. It was more from the trees than the clouds, although it was very misty. Again I woke too early. It was still dark outside, so I rolled over for another 15 minutes of rest.
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Day 3: Elizondo to the Medical Centre!
Yesterday had been spent planning the trip ahead: where to camp, where to buy supplies and how far to walk each day. The question now was whether that plan was about to fall apart on medical grounds.
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Day 4: Auritz/Burguete to Ochagavía / Otsagabia
A late start today so I could be at the pharmacy when it opened at 9am, only to discover it had actually opened at 8am.
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Day 5: Ochagavia to Zuriza
A dry night, but not quite warm enough to fully dry my clothes. They had to go back on anyway.
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Day 6: Zuriza to Refugio de Lizara
A windy night meant not much sleep. Every time I woke up I looked up to check whether the tent was still standing over me.
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Day 7: Refugio de Lizara to Ibon de Anayet
A very pleasant night's sleep. From our sheltered spot I hardly heard the wind at all. It was a relaxed morning, with Matyas and I setting off at around 7:15am.
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Day 8: Ibon de Anayet to Ibón de Llena Cantal
It was one of those defining mountain mornings. No wind, warm air, the sun slowly rising, and the surrounding peaks reflected perfectly across the lake. Matyas and I stood in silence for a while, simply taking it all in.
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Day 9: Ibón de Llena Cantal to Camping San Nicolás de Bujaruelo
The Cicerone GR11 guide describes this stage as the most difficult on the GR11, with the ascent to the Cuello de Tebarray being particularly challenging when late-season snow remains in the steep gully below the pass. There was still snow.
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Day 10: Camping San Nicolás de Bujaruelo to Refugio de Goriz
Packed up and away by 7am, I headed down the valley with the trails to myself. My first objective was the bus stop at the end of the road into Ordesa Canyon, where there is a regular shuttle bus to Torla-Ordesa. I needed to resupply as I had almost run out of food.
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